Skincare

AHAs, BHAs & PHAs: A simple guide to chemical exfoliants

Title

SkinTalks - June 30, 2026

Introduction

What are chemical exfoliants for the face?

Top chemical exfoliant picks for every skin type

Final tips for using a chemical exfoliant

FAQs

Chemical exfoliants are one of the most searched skincare topics out there, and for good reason. When you find the right one for your skin, the results speak for themselves. You’ll see smoother texture, brighter tone, clearer pores, and a whole new level of glow.

 

But with so many options on the shelf, from AHAs to BHAs to PHAs, it's easy to feel overwhelmed before you've even started. But don't worry, dear Glowie, this guide is here to cut through the noise, explain what each type of chemical exfoliant actually does, and help you find the perfect match for your skin type.

What are chemical exfoliants for the face?

A chemical exfoliant is any product that uses acids or enzymes to loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, so they shed more easily. Unlike physical exfoliators that buff dead skin away with friction, a gentle chemical exfoliant for the face does the work without any scrubbing. Read our guide to exfoliators to understand more.

 

There are three main types of chemical exfoliators:

  • AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) work on the surface of the skin, smoothing out rough texture, fading dark spots, and giving dull skin a brightness boost. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the ones you'll see most often, and they work especially well for dry, dull, or mature skin.
  • BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) go deeper, getting right inside the pore to clear out the oil and debris that causes blackheads and breakouts. Salicylic acid is the main ingredient to know here, and it's the reason BHAs are such a firm favorite for oily and acne-prone skin.
  • PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are the gentlest of the three. They work in a similar way to AHAs but take a slower, softer approach, which makes them the easiest on the skin. They’re a great entry point if you're new to chemical exfoliants or have a more sensitive skin type.

Top chemical exfoliant picks for every skin type

If there's one thing Korean skincare does brilliantly, it's combining effective actives with skin-supporting ingredients that keep your barrier happy. These are our top gentle chemical exfoliant picks for every skin type.

Exfoliants for sensitive skin

Haruharu Wonder Centella 3% PHA Gentle Liquid Exfoliating Serum is one of the best gentle chemical exfoliants for the face if your skin is reactive. The 3% PHA lifts dead skin and impurities without going too deep, while centella asiatica soothes and strengthens the skin barrier at the same time.

 

If you’re looking for something to use every day, try By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Prep Water. Mandelic acid has a larger molecular structure than other AHAs so it works more gradually and with much less risk of irritation, while beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid keep things comfortable.

 

Check out our full guide to exfoliants for sensitive skin for more recommendations.

Exfoliants for oily skin

Oily skin needs an exfoliant that can get below the surface and tackle congestion at the source, and COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid is one of the most reliable around. The 4% BHA  formula gets inside pores to break down the sebum and dead skin buildup that causes blackheads, while willow bark water keeps it gentle enough for consistent use.

 

Anua BHA 2% Gentle Exfoliating Toner is the lower-strength option worth reaching for if you want something gentle. The 2% BHA is supported by six types of ceramides to protect the skin barrier as it exfoliates, making it a good fit for oily skin that also tends toward sensitivity.

 

Looking for more exfoliants for oily skin? Check our recent SkinTalks post.

Exfoliants for combination skin

Supporting both dry patches and oily zones, COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid is a leave-on glycolic acid formula that works overnight to smooth texture, target whiteheads, and lift dullness. 

 

SOME BY MI AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner is another great option for combination skin. It covers all three acid types in one daily toner, alongside papaya and witch hazel to boost cell turnover.

Final tips for using a chemical exfoliant

Whatever you're working with, whether it's stubborn blackheads, uneven tone, or skin that just looks a little flat, there's a chemical exfoliant out there that can help. The key is starting with the right one for your skin type, following with SPF, and building up use slowly until your skin adjusts.

 

Want to explore more products? Check out our full collection of exfoliators.

FAQs

Is retinol a chemical exfoliant?

No, retinol is not a chemical exfoliant. Retinol works by speeding up cell turnover from within the skin, which can have a surface-smoothing effect. Chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs work differently by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface to reveal fresher, brighter skin underneath. 

Can you use a chemical exfoliant and retinol at the same time?

No, you shouldn’t use a chemical exfoliant and retinol on the same night. Both are active ingredients that increase skin sensitivity, and using them together raises the risk of irritation and a disrupted skin barrier. 

How long does it take for a chemical exfoliant to work?

Most people notice a difference in texture and brightness within two to four weeks of consistent use of a chemical exfoliant. For concerns like dark spots or enlarged pores, expect to wait closer to six to eight weeks before seeing a significant change.

Are chemical exfoliants better than physical?

Neither chemical nor physical is the better type of exfoliant. Chemical exfoliants tend to be more precise and are less likely to cause micro-tears in the skin, which makes them a safer choice for acne-prone or sensitive skin. Meanwhile, physical exfoliants can sometimes give a more immediate result. For the most part, the best exfoliator is simply the one that suits your skin type and that you'll actually use regularly.

Keep reading Our SkinTalks

Title